I leave the Tanzanian rains for the Zambian drought. The rainy season is late. The landscape is resumed in plains of yellow grasses with dry shrubs and rare houses. The peasants survive with their cattle and the sale of sacks of coals. Just few cars drive on the 999 kilometers of tracks and paved roads separating the border of Tunduma and the capital. I have to wait a long time but my drivers go far away. Two days will be enough to join Lusaka.

 

On the first day, Mpika's fertilizer salesman offers me hospitality by his family ... in the dark. He explains that the country's electricity is 95% produced by hydroelectric dams. Because of the abnormal drought, there is not enough electricity for everyone, so each district has different restricted hours of power. Thus light returns only between 22 hours and 4 hours at his home.

 

On the second day, a huge black jeep with tinted windows stops for me. He is the King of the district, called "Chief" from father to son. In Zambia, the power of the district is run in pairs by the local king and the elected governor. In addition to having interesting conversations, the king drives 150km/hour (instead of 100). He only has to say his name to pass the police checkpoints in 30 seconds. On the way, we catch my boyfriend Sebastian who has spent three days on the train from Tanzania. This is how we arrive earlier than expected in Lusaka.

 

I met with Céline, a highschool friend that I have not seen since my graduation in 2003 ! As she follows my hitchhiking world tour online, she contacted me a few months ago to tell me that she lived in Zambia and that I was welcome if I passed by. Sixteen years have passed but I reconnect with her with the same affinity. In addition to receiving us in her beautiful home, she also organized four conferences in schools and at the French Allianz for me! After an amazing week of rest, work and conversation, I go back to the desert road with Sebastian.

 

In one day, we arrive at Livingstone. It is a city near the famous Victoria Falls. With those of Iguaçu and Niagara, they are among the biggest in the world. We decide not to visit the Zambian side completely dry because of the lack of rain. We will go to the Zimbabwean side where there is still some water. In the meantime, we go to see our first white rhinos in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. This endangered species is monitored day and night by armed guards to ensure that their precious horns do not attract hunters. We also enjoy our luxury lodge with pool and breakfast included for 8 euros/night instead of 110 euros/night because of a mistake on the booking website ! Comfort is rare in our nomadic life so we know how to appreciate it when it pass by. Then we walk away with our big backpacks under the heavy sun.

Heading to Zimbabwe a few kilometers away.