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THE WORLD BY THUMB

100% hitchhiking - 100% world tour - Since 2013 - By Florence Renault

ATLANTIC OCEAN

July 2 to August 7, 2013

Travel Story

How to hitchhike a boat ?

- Boat Hitchhiking? Does it exist?
- Hmmm yes, I think! I’ve seen it online…

I realized that the majority of sailboats sail from East to West, in the trade winds direction. Well, my trip around the world will go from East to West; it will give me more chances to find a boat to hitchhike. Not knowing how it is possible and how long it will take, I decide to start my trip with what seems the most complicated way possible: crossing the Atlantic with a hitched boat from France.


Here I am, in the streets of Paris with Cyrielle to undertake my project.

I upload ads and the links of my video online.

Similar to carpooling websites, there are websites for co-navigation (labourseauxequipiers, cotwest,...). Most of the ads paying co-navigation, but there were also a few propositions for convoying.
There are either brand new or used boats that make deliveries to the client’s country. In the case of convoying, the skipper is paid and the preparation/harbour/gas expenses are taken care of by the convoying company. The journey, therefore, can be free for the teammate. In compensation, they have to participate with the boat preparation (protect furniture, maintain steel…), as well as assuring the vigil of the boat. Everybody pays his part for the food and water (it costs me 180€ for a month, or 6€ per days).

Mid-June, I find a convoy to the United States of America. I met with the skipper. Departure scheduled mid-August… Mid-August seems far away. This also means traveling in North America during autumn and winter, not the best. I keep looking for ads online. I send an application and my video by email to a convoying company… who knows…


And one Sunday night in June, sprawling on Agnès’ coach, using Benoît’s laptop, I check my emails… a skipper working for the convoying company is inviting me to join him in Brazil… next week! Cap? (Shortcut from capable). I walk back home, it is raining in Paris. In my head I make the list of all the things I have left to do. I am moving out in four days, for the rest… come on, it’s possible, cap!
The next day, I call the skipper; we talk for 30 minutes, good conversation, good feeling…Meeting at Sables-d’Olonne in one week! The countdown is starting.

« Everything is possible, nothing is impossible »

(Emmanuelle, sister and philosopher)
- There are seasons for navigation: the Atlantic crossing is usually done from October to February ( I did it from July to August).
- An experienced teammate has way more chances to find a hitchhiking-boat

(I had no experience)
- Most of the announcements are posted one or two weeks before the departure so you have to be ready (or you can choose the option: administrative paperwork, farewell party, move out, schedule of fixtures, a car accident, purchase of belonging and backpack preparation, wedding, tidying up boxes at my parents, goodbye party the real goodbye… in just one week.

 

The departure

Tuesday, July 2013, 2nd … Today I’m starting my trip around the world!
The reality has yet to sink in, it feels just like I am leaving for vacation. I am happy and relieved to finally leave, a little sad and touched too. After breakfast, I kiss my mom. My dad drops me at the entrance of the highway of Orléans and goes to work.
6 drivers take me from Orléans to Sables-d’Olonne, I arrive at the beginning of the afternoon. At the Alona’s harbour, I meet Julien, the skipper and Cédric the other teammate volunteer that he has known since high school.

- Well, Florence, let’s just tell you right away: the transat (the trans-Atlantic race) is cancelled ! The Brazilian buyer is not buying the boat anymore.
At first I believe it to be a joke, a kind of sailor initiation. Not at all.
- We can still stay on the boat until tomorrow. We can sleep here tonight if we wanted to. With Cédric, I go around the marina to ask if someone is leaving for Brazil. Nobody. Our bitterness soon swims in alcohol at the harbor’s bar. Too bad, we would have been a great team. They seem really nice. What I am going to do tomorrow? Certainly stay in Vendée, go to the beach and why not… Lay on a transat (deckchair).


- Florence, wake up! I just got a phone call! In the end we are leaving for Brazil! It is 6 o’clock but it is impossible to go back to sleep. Over the next few days we prepare the brand new sailboat, an Oceanis 48. Drawers after seats, table after floor, we cover everything with plastic, cardboard, foam and carpet. The boat must be delivered brand new. There is water in the engine; the departure is going to be postponed. Finally no, it is fixed the next morning. We fill two enormous carts with food. There is no more room in the car so I hitchhike back to the harbor.


Saturday, July 2013, 6th …. Today I leave for a transat (trans-Atlantic race)!

 

 

(Un) transat or (une) transat = a deckchair or a trans-Atlantic race


(In French both words are called ‘transat’ This paragraph is based on a play on words. Le transat (the deckchair) is masculine and la transat (the trans-Atlantic race) is feminine.


So, apparently the inventor of the transat (deckchair) never crosses the Atlantic. He has probably never been on a boat.The transat (deckchair), it is on the beach that he thought about it. Otherwise he wouldn’t have named it like that… Or maybe was he referring to a curved canvas reminding him of a boat’s sail. Or is it this curve that reminds him of the waves’ one and the chair’s instability from the boat. And this wood’s slamming? The front of the boat violently hits the waves!

 

… You would have guess, a boat moves! I understood it was on the sea, my stomach too. Even when it moves a little bit, it still moves (too much), you have to hang on to the side of the seats. At night you have to settle yourself in your bed against the corner so you don’t move too much. We eat in bowls; the electric stove swings so the pans do not fall down. The body is always under tension. The stomach swings. It seems like most of the people are seasick but after a couple of days it goes away.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was not my case: I was often sick, sometimes for an entire day, sometimes for a few hours. During the last week, it was better. The medications did not have any effect. The only hope that I had left was to look up at the horizon or tighten up my molars and hold my breath to reach my cabin. Thankfully, swimming time gave me some time off.

 

Luckily, I was still able to ensure my shift. We were taking turns every six hours for a watch of three hours. In this way, I was keeping an eye on the speed and the wind, the weird noises, the potential boats on the horizon from midnight to 3 am, from 9am to noon, from 6pm to 9pm, from 3am to 6am etc… I was to wake up Julien, the skipper, when something was wrong.
There was some rain (more accurately buckets of water at “Poteau Noir”), some gusts and sometimes some huge waves that would hose us down. But no tempests (like Astérix and Obélix where the storm unleashed), nor pirates’ attacks. I learned knots and a lot of technical words. I was part of the maneuvers to put up and take down the sail; I also tried to steer a bit.


Finally, I think I found the common point between le transat (deckchair) and la transat (trans-Atltantic race): the slowness of the time. We were able to rethink the world and France too. Politics, society, economy, I think we talked about everything.
One month, you have a lot of time to think about questions more or less existential such as « Do sharks eat dolphins?”* or “Should we throw a can in the sea?" ** and to reconsider the basics because yes « fishes fly » and « Brazilians from Salvador are black”. You sleep, think about what we are going to eat, eat, take a nap and eat again. Reading, music, some movies, learning some words in Portuguese and some constellations’ name, dolphins’ performances and sunsets et… the best: swimming every two – three days in the immensity of the ocean.


* No, sharks do not eat dolphins, according to Julien (info checked since)
** Yes, throw cans in the sea, it is offering a house to fishes. The aluminum will degrade with salted water, it pollutes less than burning them in Brazilian recycling center... still according to Julien (I still have no opinion on the question).


 

Translated by Emmanuelle Renault

 

 

Photographies 0f The Transatlantic

Video: Looking for boat to the Americas

LE MONDE SUR LE POUCE - Looking for a boat to America
Play Video
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